Whilst I couldn't find a red or green curry anywhere it didn't mean all dishes were coconut free - one such creamy delicacy being khao soi. Following a recommendation for a local Chiang Mai dish we got this delight.
A vat of dark, oily chicken curry sat simmering on the hob. Upon ordering chewy wheat noodles were warmed through, a spoonful of the curry was poured over then on went the coconut milk, leaving a delicately spiced soup, dotted with red oil. Texture was added through deep fried noodles on top.