July 2008

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Tofu

January 29, 2008

The wonders of Dalston (Hackney)

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For a while now the girlfriend and I have been talking about moving in with each other and finally we’ve done it. Initially we were going to buy a place but I work in credit and you’ve probably noticed there’s a great big credit crunch/sub-prime (although you’d probably never heard these terms before a month or two ago) crisis going on. As such my job isn’t the most secure at the minute so combined with the faltering housing market renting somewhere seemed a good option. One advantage of renting is you get to have a place a bit more expensive than you could afford to buy and so we’ve ended up in a great Victorian school conversion. It’s all double height ceilings, huge windows, wooden floors and a mezzanine level bedroom. In my eyes very cool. Before I start to sound a bit too Nigella enough of the lifestyle chatter and let’s get back on to food.

For years I’ve lived in Islington (a very respectable postcode) but although I’ve only moved three roads away from my old abode I now live in Hackney, a borough that holds the most impressive accolade as the Guardian’s worst place in the UK to live. But what do they know? It’s far from that bad though and one thing it does excel at is food. Hackney is as multi-cultural as anywhere in this country and within a few hundred metres of my home I have Turkish, Chinese, Vietnamese, Cameroonian, West Indian, Nigerian and Ethiopian restaurants along with a fantastic Polish store, a pretty impressive (if you like chickens with their heads on and cow’s feet) market and, finally, an Oriental supermarket. Not bad if you’re a fan of interesting food really.

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Last week I decided to have a look through the cookbooks and was surprised to find a book full exclusively of tofu recipes, I’m going through a bit of a tofu phase at the minute – fried, boiled, silken/smooth/fermented, however – so this seemed perfect for the blog. I picked up a whole series, well pork ribs, hot and spicy and tofu, of these books when I was in Singapore last year and they're full of very interesting recipes.  I thought I’d go for something with an out the ordinary ingredient so I settled on a recipe including Chinese chives (I think, we had a bit of trouble determining exactly what these were), fried tofu and king prawns. The Chinese chives I bought looked a lot like a bunch of grass, being about 18 inches long and made up of many green blades, similar to water spinach/kang kong. Actually the more I think about it the more I think these weren’t Chinese chives so if anyone  wants to correct me please crack on.  Not sure what they were though.  The lady in the shop said they were but her English wasn't the best. 

Continue reading "The wonders of Dalston (Hackney)" »

October 23, 2007

I made it!

The odds were heavily against me but I think I've made it.  Admittedly the 14 days free of trial weren't particularly exciting for anyone that surfed here but if this is the sign of things to come I may actually get this blog up and running.

With the theme being the cooking of recipes from the cookbook collection the first job was to choose a book.  Being the first post too I wanted it to be something special and so initial thoughts were my first ever cookbook.  I'm 30 now but at age 12, at a time when all my friends' idea of reading material was the lingerie section of whatever catalogue their mum had (OK, so I was pretty partial to that too), I was stood in the souvenir shop in Orlando asking my dad to buy me Mickey Cooks Disneyworld.  This fine tome contained various recipes from the said theme park's restaurants and although I don't actually remember choosing it it obviously appealed at the time.  I removed it from the shelf and started flicking through but no matter how hard I tried I couldn't find something I wanted to cook with it being full of heavy roux based sauces, strange meat and fruit concoctions from one of the many countries featured in the Epcot Centre and generally dated and unappealing recipes.  My mind was finally made up when my just-back-from-Peru eyes caught site of a ceviche recipe that suggested leaving the fish flesh in the citrus marinade for 24 hours.  I'm no ceviche expert but I have a couple of Peruvian cookbooks and you're looking at 20 minutes for some of the recipes in there, I can't imagine what 24 hours must do to the delicate white flesh.  This was the final straw and although the book will always be my first I'm not in a hurry to cook anything from it just yet.

Once any attempts at finding a book with a story attached were scrapped there was only one choice and that was my current favourite cookbook - Sichuan Cookery by Fuchsia Dunlop. Sichuan Cookery Ever since buying this book a month or two back I've been singing the praises of it to anyone who will listen.  I'd never eaten proper Sichuan food before (the Kung Po chicken in most British Chinese restaurants doesn't count) so only bought this after reading a review of a new Sichuan restaurant in London.  Liking the sound of the dishes mentioned a quick search on Amazon for 'Sichuan' showed this book had received a lot of praise so I cracked on and have probably read it cover to cover twice now.  I think, for a Westerner, my knowledge of oriental food is OK but this book was full of recipes I'd never seen anything like with some of the best names ever - Pock Marked  Mother Chen's Beancurd, Fire Exploding Kidney Flowers, Fish Fragrant Pork Slivers and so on.  Although not limited to this the dishes I've tried have combined salty and spicy flavours, using chilli bean paste, black beans, Sichuan peppercorns and dried chilli, to create dishes with huge depth of flavour and interesting texture. 

For the my first recipe on here I chose one that I think shows off the flavours well and also has a quality name, the aforementioned Pockmarked Mother Chen's Beancurd.  This dish is supposedly named after the smallpox-scarred wife of a restaurateur who served this dish to the poor labourers of the town.

On to the recipe, this dishes uses a couple of Chinese supermarket only ingredients but they last indefinitely once purchased and I think are well worth getting.  Outside of this dish they open up the possibility of quite a few more recipes from the book (which you're obviously going to buy after reading this).

Due to what ingredients I had in the fridge this recipe differs from the book slightly although it is very similar. That's probably pretty convenient for copyright reasons too.

Mapo Doufu - Pock Marked Mother Chen's Beancurd, for 2 people.

The Ingredients

1 350gr block firm tofu 

125gr minced beef

3 spring onions, sliced on the diagonal

50 ml of oil (a lot but it's a purposefully oily dish)

200ml chicken stock

1 1/2 TB chilli bean paste

1 TB black beans

3/4 ts sugar

1 ts dark soy sauce

2 TB cornflour mixed with 3 TB of cold water

1/4 ts roasted then ground Sichuan peppercorns

The Method

Mise En Place 1.  When stir frying anything I like to be prepared, things cook quickly in a hot wok and the last thing you want to be doing is struggling to undo a jar and measure out a couple of tablespoons of something.  I tend to measure everything out onto a plate ready to scrape in at the correct time.  For this dish I also mix the cornflour and water, along with the soy and sugar, into the stock.

2. Cut the tofu into 2cm cubes and put in simmering water.

3. Get the oil hot and add the beef aiming to crisp it up and get a bit of texture.  This can take a few minutes depending on beef and wok temperature.

4. Once browning add the chilli bean paste and black beans and allow them to mix into the oily beef.

5. After a minute gently empty in the drained tofu and pour in the stock mixture.

6. Turn the heat down, allowing the mixture to come to a simmer and thicken.  Carefully shake, rather than stir, to distribute as the tofu can be pretty lightweight stuff.

7. Throw in the spring onions, shake again then serve, sprinkling with the ground Sichuan pepper.

And here's the result.

Mapo Doufu

It's a bit heavy on beef compared to my first attempt - mainly as there's about 50% more than the recipe stated - as there happened to be a 125gr bag of minced beef in my freezer.  Outside of that I think it's a pretty good representation.  This dish has a bit of everything - it's oily, hot and aromatic in flavour and  the soft texture of the tofu contrasts well with the firmer bite of the beef. I challenge anyone to try it and not be converted.

Now I need to start thinking about the next installment, current thoughts are something from The Exotic Kitchens of Peru as it will allow me to show off a few of my recent Peru photos while staying on the theme of my cookbooks.